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Post by icewillie on Jul 15, 2006 16:15:12 GMT -5
Well here it is my first attempt to post a message!!! Just wondering what Mark Seiler found to be the problem on the miata after nti ? And oh yea watch out for that pesky byrd he'll tell you the fast way is to go to the left of the slolom and then he goes to the right some bimmer Byrd's will do anything for a shot to out run poor innocent little Miata's. 
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Post by C4Shane on Jul 15, 2006 16:24:21 GMT -5
Haaaa...Haaa...Mehahayaha....you listened to the big byrd....whow...the rest uv us new better...why do ya think we call him "Dark Lord of the Blue Propeller"?
Well, welcome to the forum...you can waste a good part of yer life here!!!
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Post by lagunamiata on Jul 15, 2006 17:30:41 GMT -5
Now Willie, you need to register... no more posting as a guest!
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Post by chillywillie on Jul 15, 2006 18:36:20 GMT -5
I really was registered but I didnt log my self on long enough and next thing you know it was telling me that someone was already chillywillie so I changed my user name to ice willie which changed me to a guest (man it sucks being a rookie) Has anyone heard from Mark? |
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Post by lagunamiata on Jul 15, 2006 19:05:36 GMT -5
I'll e-mail him...
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Post by jbyrd on Jul 15, 2006 20:56:19 GMT -5
Haaaa...Haaa...Mehahayaha....you listened to the big byrd....whow...the rest uv us new better...why do ya think we call him "Dark Lord of the Blue Propeller"? Well, welcome to the forum...you can waste a good part of yer life here!!! I guess Ford drivers are too smart to listen to me! ;D  ;D |
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Post by damnyankee on Jul 15, 2006 21:03:56 GMT -5
So are Z drivers! ;D
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Post by C4Shane on Jul 15, 2006 21:43:59 GMT -5
Haaaa...Haaa...Mehahayaha....you listened to the big byrd....whow...the rest uv us new better...why do ya think we call him "Dark Lord of the Blue Propeller"? Well, welcome to the forum...you can waste a good part of yer life here!!! I guess Ford drivers are too smart to listen to me! ;D ;D if'n we were smart we woodent drive Furds....but ya gotta work wid the tools ya got... |
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Post by jbyrd on Jul 16, 2006 5:47:53 GMT -5
but you're smart enough not to drive Mieaddahs.
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Post by C4Shane on Jul 16, 2006 8:55:39 GMT -5
I can't spell Meeeoughta!...Guess that is a common problem as the new one is just called MX-5.
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Post by markt on Jul 16, 2006 12:43:01 GMT -5
It ran great putting it back on the trailer! Which leads me to believe it’s not mechanical, timing belt, etc. I just got it off the trailer this morning because we’ve had a garage being framed this week and I didn’t have a decent place to put it.
Let me run through the whole scenario and get your take.
I noticed during the run group that the idle seemed a bit rough at the 1200rpm interim idle and it smoothed out considerably, though not totally, when it dropped to 800. It ran fine during the runs, until the last one for Ray.
I took it out for about 5-10 minutes this morning to get it warmed up and the idle was much smoother at 1200 and was pretty darn good at 800. I don’t know if I’d have noticed either being “imperfect” had I not been paying attention. What I did notice, though, was that when it dropped off 1200 it stayed at 1000 for a half second then the needle roughly went down to 800 but I didn’t really notice any roughness in the idle when it did it.
A bit of history…when I got Red the idle would go right down to 800(just like our ’02 so I thought nothing of it). After I changed the timing belt it started to stall after ¼ mile on coldish mornings(the drive from our driveway out to the main road). I would count to 10 and it would fire right up and run great. I changed the CAS o-ring at a tech day at Jim’s. When I drove home it started to do the 1200rpm for 5 secs and drop to 800. I thought something was wrong but found out then it should have been doing that all along. Last fall when it started to get colder I noticed it wasn’t stalling any more after the ¼ drive. Since last fall it has run better that ever(I’ve done virtually nothing tune-up wise in about a year(other than change oil), plugs, wires, etc. Until Rich tried to check it the only other time the timing was even close to being checked was at a tech day at P1 when Dana tried to check it but the timing light was flashing erratically. We put away his light and let sleeping dogs lie.
I think something electrical or timing-wise is amiss. I’ve looked at the shop manual a bit and it could be coil-pack for the mis-fire and I haven’t looked up idle problems yet.
I'm just now getting started by cleaning the airfilter
One last thing, before we ran I was talking to Bo Hendley who had his left headlight cover slightly raised and asked how he did it. He said he turned the knob on the motor to raise it…I tried that a couple times and the motor ran the knob back in my hand…I left it alone at that point. It hasn't misfired since letting it sit for a while in the paddock.
I'm just now getting started by cleaning the airfilter because the shop manual seems to go back to an airflow problem.
Your thoughts?
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Post by soloracer on Jul 16, 2006 13:25:47 GMT -5
It's Sunday afternoon. Think I will have another beer. And a nap! James |
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Post by markt on Jul 16, 2006 15:39:47 GMT -5
That's where I'm at in the repair process....analysis via barley pop...I'm fixin' ta start thinkin' about cleaning the throttle body...sip...yeah, that's it...sip...throttle body...yep...sip...
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Post by C4Shane on Jul 16, 2006 20:08:27 GMT -5
sounds like a good idea....i'll break open annuder...yep...Sam Adams...not bad for starters...Guess the headers on the Fiesta can wait...
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Post by chillywillie on Jul 17, 2006 17:14:20 GMT -5
hhhhhmmm!!!! Not sure what to think other than just going back to the day at nti dead sticking #1 it seemed like the the timing didnt look quite right when at tdc, and then when we had the timing light on it you couldnt find the notch on the crank pulley. although if it seems to be running good now I wouldnt think the cam timing being off would be the problem either. Am I mistaken or wasnt it lacking power at nti? is that not the case now? Sorry it took so long to get back to you if you want to give me a hollar via the phone it might be easier to converse. Hey have you ever noticed those furd drivers and bimmer drivers cant speel very good they probably couldnt afford computers with spell ck trying to upkeep them oil leaking euro preepy feather flyin machines they got How was that for some trash talkin!!!!!  ? |
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Post by markt on Jul 17, 2006 18:56:32 GMT -5
Callin you da Supa Trash, baby!
I just got done changing plugs and cleaning air filter, haven't got to cleaning the intake yet but, it runs as good or better than ever. The timing notch needs to be checked because there's a yellow and white mark on pulley, not sure why. I'm gonna take my timing light(never used) to the Miata Tech Day at Hall's this Saturday, I'm doing the brake massa sylindur and clutch fluid pre-hillclimb. I'll also bring my spring compressors if any Miata-phile wishes to change their shox or sprangz...splel ckhrec mi azz...
Mark
CSP111
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Post by lagunamiata on Jul 17, 2006 19:10:45 GMT -5
Many have two marks. You want to use the one toward the passenger side to set the timing. If you try to use the other mark you'll be at 18 or 20 degrees!
We should have a Mac spring compressor too. I'll also have our OBD-II scanner a few other things.
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Post by savestheday on Jul 17, 2006 19:26:04 GMT -5
Man still giving you trouble. Im Geoff the kid with the green integra that was a few spots over from you. Dont miatas have a hall effects on the crank, maybe it got tweaked a little. If it was a honda I might be able to help more, sorry. If you need any miata parts let me know, a friend has one he is parting out. Good luck with it though.
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Post by lagunamiata on Jul 17, 2006 19:29:42 GMT -5
Tell your friend to send me a list of what he has that's good. I know some people looking for parts. Also let me know what year the car is (or was).
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Post by markt on Jul 17, 2006 19:40:23 GMT -5
Time for more analysis via barley pop...
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Post by chillywillie on Jul 17, 2006 20:40:40 GMT -5
Izzz doozzz declaaarezzz
Im kinda stumped guess I didnt really understand the problem you were having at nti I was thinking you said it lost power pretty bad that day we were cking it out. You might have an electrical problem of some sort if its not showing up now I guess youll have to wait for it to rare its ugly head maybe you could duplicate it by making some runs similar to auto xing maybe it is heat related? Keep me posted.
Willie
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Post by soloracer on Jul 17, 2006 20:51:02 GMT -5
Sounds Barley pop related.
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Post by markt on Jul 18, 2006 4:14:49 GMT -5
burp...should find out at the 24hrs if it dooz it agin...I'm reading the manual to see where timing/misfire intersect electrically, ain't got it figured out yet, had to work on daughter-in-laws car last night, she ripped off the passenger mirror at a car wash...AGAIN!!!! and this time she didn't want red racer tape as a fix, sheesh, go figure...
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Post by rayray69 on Jul 22, 2006 20:59:14 GMT -5
wellllllll, tech day didn't go so well for my dad. The car started acting up again on his way up there. He said on his way home that it ran fine until he got to the bottom of his driveway and then it started again. It is around 30 miles or so from his house to the tech day location. He got some guesses as to what it could be and we think it may be the coilpack. ?? ONE thing has been the same every time that the problem happened, it is hot. HELP!!!! |
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Post by soloracer on Jul 22, 2006 22:35:27 GMT -5
Many have two marks. You want to use the one toward the passenger side to set the timing. If you try to use the other mark you'll be at 18 or 20 degrees! We should have a Mac spring compressor too. I'll also have our OBD-II scanner a few other things. This one has three marks, mebbe. 2 for timing and one behind the wheel. |
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Post by lagunamiata on Jul 23, 2006 15:07:03 GMT -5
Yeah, we worked Mark pretty hard at tech day... He even broke a sweat!
Its a tough one to diagnose... Several of us think maybe the coilpack...
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Post by markt on Jul 23, 2006 15:33:28 GMT -5
I checked the resistance on the coilpack cold and it shouldn't be above .94ohms on the primary sides, one of them is at 2.2ohms, subtract the .4ohms of the tester and I think I may have found the problem, the other side is reading 1.4 which could be within spec due to the ambient temp being 80 instead of recommended 68...I'm going to replace coilpack per manual(if it's over .94 replace it) and hope that's it...
Mark
CSP111
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